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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



" Therefore get wisdom: And 

with all thy getting, get 

understanding" 



Sectional Measure 
Trousers System 



Price with Boxwood Scale 
Prepaid $10.00 



Copyrighted IQI2 
•By 

Farr L. Scott 

Author and Publisher, Toledo, Ohio 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

The Reason 1 

Analysis of Trousers Cutting 2 

Sectional Measures 3 

Directions for Measuring.... 6 

Single and Double thigh — 

The Measures 8 

What they indicate 9 

Their application 12 

Trousers balance — 

Rise and side length. 14 

Waist suppression... 18 

Description of the scale 21 

To draft — Normal Forepart 22 

To draft — Normal Backpart 24 

To draft — Medium Peg-Top Forepart 26 

To draft — Medium Peg-Top Backpart 28 

To draft — Corpulent & Stout Forepart 30 

To draft — Corpulent & Stout Backpart 32 

Manipulation for high hip 34 

Theory and practice ■. • 35 

"Cutting remarks" 3 6 



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ANALYSIS OF TROUSERS 
CUTTING 



In publishing this hand book on trousers cutting, 
I do so with the fullest confidence in the soundness 
of the principles advocated. Having personally used 
all the measurements in actual practice, covering a 
period of from two to ten years. It has been a 
tedious process of development and has required an 
endless amount of study and application to reduce 
theory to practice, especially to reduce it to proper 
form for a text book. I offer no apology for advocat- 
ing sectional measures. Thousands of the best citizens 
of this country, who support by their patronage the 
Merchant tailoring industry are asking for and have 
a right to expect, trousers cut and tailored by the 
same standard of excellence as their coats and vests. 

The fact that disproportion is the "paramount 
issue" before the cutter in daily practice, convinces 
me that a need exists for a system of trousers cutting 
that recognizes and deals with such disproportion of 
the lower trunk, in the same effective and practical 
manner as coat systems do with the upper trunk. 
In the following pages, I shall endeavor to demon- 
strate and prove, that the measurements herein ad- 
vocated are adequate to determine such dispropor- 
tion And that their application to the draft wili 
produce a pattern, better in its fitting points than 
can possibly be produced by the seat measure alone. 

It may not be out of place to briefly analyze sys- 
tems of trousers cutting in general use today, and by 
such analysis, determine whether or not any of the 
vital elements are lacking to make them effective for 
use by the twentieth century cutter. In the first place 
I base my argument for sectional measures on the 
doctrine: That all trousers systems that establish 
fitting points for leg size, leg position and seat angle 
by any division of the seat measure, are seat measure 
systems pure and simple, corresponding in every de- 
tail to breast measure coat systems, long since aband- 
oned by at least 90% of the cutters who draft in- 
dividual patterns. Every thoughtful student of cut- 
ting must concede that seat measure indicates nothing 
but seat circumference. And that the use of any 
divisions of such seat measure to determine size and 
position of the legs, pre-supposes that all men with 
a given seat size, have the same size legs, and that 
the legs are connected to the body in exactly the same 



manner. This is not true with the arm and shoulder 
and it is not true with legs. I maintain that size 
and position of the legs, type of form, whether normal, 
flat seat with wide hips, or prominent back seat with 
hollow back waist are width elements not determined 
in the slightest degree by the seat measure. Further- 
more: That outseam and inseam are insufficent to 
determine relative front, side and back length quan- 
tities, which together with waist suppression consti- 
tute the controlling factors of trousers balance. 

The American cutter has made rapid progress 
in the use of sectional measure coat systems, both 
with the "long' and "short" measure methods. And 
bas become very proficient in the taking and applica- 
tion of such measures in the production of the drafted 
pattern, supplemented by the skilful try-on, has en- 
abled him to produce a finished garment that is a 
marvel of exquisite drapery and fitting qualities. 
That no such corresponding progress has been made 
in trousers cutting, seems incredible. True it is that 
cutters have become more expert in the use of trous- 
ers systems, but the fact remains, that the basic and 
fundamental principles of trousers cutting has not 
advanced and kept pace with that of coat cutting. 
This may be due in a measure to the fact that the 
majority of cutters are graduated coat makers, and 
naturally specialize on coats. 



SECTIONAL MEASURES. 

Gutters today, quite generally agree on the prop- 
osition that the normal form is the foundation upon 
which we build systems of cutting, and from which 
we calculate degrees of disproportion, or variation 
from such normal standard. It follows then, that ad- 
measurements that will detect abnormal conditions 
of the several sections of the body, are preferable to 
"eye-ball system" and "judgment." For the purpose 
of more clearly defining and classifying such measure- 
ments, I would divide the human body in two parts: 
The upper and the lower, with the waist as the divid- 
ing line. The breast is the foundation of all the 
measurements of the upper, and the seat for the lower. 
The sectional measures used in coat and vest cutting, 
are the means used to determine the various degrees 
of disproportion of the sections of the upper trunk: 
And the single and double thigh, rise and side length, 
will if taken with the same skill and exactness, in- 
dicate fully as accurately, the degree and amount of 
disproportion, of the several sections of the lower 
trunk and limbs. Waist size and shape are factors 



common to both divisions and treated in much the 
same manner, by making suppression where small and 
additions where large. 

Sectional measures serve two purposes, First: to 
measure actual widths and lengths of the various 
sections, and secondly: To detect type. As an illus- 
tration, large blade accompanied by short strap would 
very clearly indicate the stooping type, and a long 
strap and small blade would indicate just as clearly 
the opposite, or erect type. While the normal type 
is determined by sectional measures that are in har- 
mony with the breast measure. Measures sectional 
to the seat indicate just as positively, actual width 
and length quantities of the several sections, as well 
as type of form. These measures, the manner of tak- 
ing them and the purpose they serve will be dealt 
with fully under separate headings. 

A further analysis of sectional measures reveals 
the fact that they are alternating measures, taken in 
pairs. Thus blade alternates with strap, upper with 
lower shoulder, back length with front length, single 
with double thigh and rise with side length. The 
fact that they are alternating and that they do show 
increase and decrease from a normal quantity, is the 
soundest possible proof of the necessity for their use. 
The fact that disproportion exists, and exists to as 
great extent in the lower as in the upper trunk and 
limbs, is the "reason" for this sectional measure 
trousers system. The opponents of sectional measure 
coat systems, based their argument on the fact that 
it was difficult to obtain accurate measurements, ow- 
ing to the tendency of the customer to inflate his 
chest, or to assume an unnatural attitude while be- 
ing measured. This objection does not hold good with 
sectional measures for trousers, as customer cannot 
affect size of leg, position of the legs or side length 
by any scheme of contracting the muscles, or by as- 
suming an unnatural attitude. I make the claim that 
such measures are of greater necessity, than with 
coats, because of the lack of a try-on; And if tried on, 
little or no such opportunity to correct or alter sec- 
tional widths or balance, as with coats. The import- 
ance of accurate measures for trousers may be still 
further emphasized by the argument, that it is diffi- 
cult to successfully alter the finished garment, in fact 
alterations for defective balance are next to impos- 
sible. 

All variations from the normal are classed under 
the general term, "disproportion." A more accurate 
classification, however would be disproportion and de- 



iorniity. The former indicating abnormal conditions, 
due to an unequal development of the flesh or fatty 
substance of the body; And the latter by irregular- 
ities of the frame work or skeleton. Thus a 44 breast 
accompanied by a 44 waist, would indicate dispropor- 
tionate waist size, while low shoulder, high hip, bow 
leg etc are undoubtedly cases of deformity. Dispro- 
portion is determined by circumference measures 
of the body and limbs, in conjunction with total 
height; While deformity is detected by sectional 
length and width measures. It makes little or no 
difference in actual practice, whether the case be one 
of deformity or disproportion, but a clearer under- 
standing of the difference between the two, will enable 
a cutter to proceed more intelligently with the treat- 
ment of any irregularities encountered. 

In the foregoing I have endeavored to analyze 
systems of trousers cutting, fairly and impartially; 
And to point out what, in my opinion ,is lacking to 
make them adequate for successful use by the cutter 
of today. I believe that the practice of "sizing up" a 
customer to detect irregularities of form, and the use 
of "judgment" to determine changes from the normal, 
to be made to the drafted pattern, to be unworthy the 
genius and skill of the American cutter. Such a 
method is cultivated guess work and requires years 
of practice to approach even fair ability as a trousers 
cutter. 

I have also dwelt at considerable length on the 
subject of sectional measures, as used in coat cutting, 
for the purpose of emphasizing the necessity of using 
corresponding measures in trousers cutting. Basing 
my argument on the doctrine that disproportion is 
the vital issue and that such disproportion exists in 
the seat section to the same extent as in the breast 
section; And that any argument in favor of sectional 
measures for coats and vests, is equally applicable 
to trousers. It would be worse than folly to point 
out such defects in trousers systems, without offer- 
ing a remedy therefor. This I shall do, by first des- 
cribing the measurements I believe to be absolutely 
essential; The principle involved, the purpose they 
each serve and finally their application to the drafted 
pattern. I undertook the task of compiling in text 
book form, this system, with the settled purpose of 
not only telling what to do, but how and Avhy. 



CORRECT MANNER OF OBTAIN- 
ING THE NECESSARY 

MEASUREMENTS 

FOR SECTIONAL MEASURE 

TROUSERS SYSTEM 



PREPARATION — Have customer remove coat 
and vest, also anything in the pockets that will in- 
terfere with the measurements. Assume a normal 
position on the measuring block, feet neither close 
nor too far apart. Remove the belt if any is worn 
and pin up waistband in the back, if necessary, so that 
it comes above the hip bones and is snug enough to 
remain in such position while measurements are be- 
ing taken. Use the common sliding arm square to 
locate the hip bones at 1 and 2, being careful that 
both arms of the square are placed immediately above 
the hips, with the front tipped down a trifle. While 
in this position chalk mark on the upper edge of the- 
square at 1, 2 and 3. In case of stout and corpulent 
men, when the hip cannot be located, adjust the slid- 
ing arm square to the height desired. 

OUTSEAM — Measure from 1 to the floor at 4, 
and deduct %-inch. Measure also from 2 to the floor, 
to detect difference if any, in the hip height. (See 
page 3 4.) 

INSEAM — Measure from 5 to the floor, and de- 
duct %-inch. 

SIDE-LENGTH — The difference between outseam 
and inseam. 

RISE — Place short arm of the common division 
square close up to the crotch, perpendicular with the 
floor, and find rise at chalk mark 3. 

BOTTOM AND KNEE — Sizes as desired. 

SINGLE THIGH — Measure close up to the crotch, 
on the undress side and straight around the leg, hori- 
zontal with the floor as from 5 to 7. Fairly snug. 

DOUBLE THIGH — Around both legs, in the same 
position as from 7 to 8. Also fairly snug. 

SEAT — Over largest part of the seat, 3 to 4 
inches above 7 and 8. Same tension as Single and 
Double Thigh. 

WAIST — Taken immediately above the hip bones 
and quite snug, if for belted trousers. Or easy as 
wanted. 

Spend two or three extra minutes procuring accurate and 
necessary measurements: It may save two or three hours busheling 
the finished garment. 

Points I, 2 and 3 are relative, and of the greatest importance, 
as they form the basis of correct trousers balance. 

Use an enameled linen tape measure for accuracy. Have 
scale for front rise marked on your square. 



SINGLE AND DOUBLE THIGH 



THE MEASURES. 



Single and double thigh measures are taken to 
determine size and position of the legs, independently 
of seat size. As the legs are an outgrowth, or con- 
tinuation of the trunk they should show when normal, 
a relative size and position to the seat. In order to 
accurately determine that normal size, I have for the 
past ten years, at the close of each season compiled 
tables, copied from the measure book, showing actual 
measures taken; From these combined tables, I have 
determined what constitutes the normal single and 
double thigh. From these tables I have also calcu- 
lated the minimum decrease and the maximum in- 
crease of both measures. But more important still: 
I have been anabled, by the aid of such tables, to 
classify the different types and to figure quite ac- 
curately, the percentage of disproportion. 

In computing such percentages, I have not taken 
into account waist sizes at all. The percentages are 
normal, or otherwise, in relation to seat size only. 
Normal double thigh — 15%, normal single thigh — 
10% and normal single and double thigh only 6%. 
These deductions have been made after a continuous 
use of the thigh measures for the past ten years, and 
should show a decided abnormal condition of leg 
size and position. To enumerate the actual amounts 
of increase and decrease of single and double thighs 
in the different types, would require more space than 
a work of this kind would warrant: Suffice to say 
that variations from a normal size of both measures, 
is equal to that of any of the sectional measures used 
in the breast section. As an illustration: Blade size 
for a 38 breast, will show an approximate increase and 
decrease of two sizes each. Reduced to figures, 3S 
breast is frequently accompanied by a 12 blade (which 
is two sizes large) and as often accompanied by a 11 
blade, (which is two sizes small). Both thigh meas- 
ures show a maximum increase of two sizes, as with 
coats; That is a 39 seat is sometimes accompanied by 
a 23 instead of a 22 single, and a 38% instead of a 
36*4 double thigh. But both thigh measures show 
a greater decrease than any sectional measure used at 
the breast section; In regular sizes, 37 to 41 seat, 
they are both frequently as much as 4 sizes small, and 
in elderly corpulent men, as much as 7 sizes. 



Thigh measures develop the fact that the two 
are alternating; That is, as one increases the other 
decreases. The exceptions to this rule, are found 
occasionally in the well developed athlete, whose 
single and double thigh will both show increased size. 
Also in practically all elderly and corpulent men, both 
will show decrease. But in the average customer the 
single and double thigh alternate in about the same 
ratio as strap and blade. The fact that they are alter- 
nating, and that one checks the other, is the soundest 
proof of the necessity of using both measures. 

The single and double thigh measures should be 
taken immediately below the seat, and with the same 
tension as the seat measure. It is advisable,- for ac- 
curacy, to take fairly snug measures, (neither tight 
nor loose). The result should show a double thigh, 
if normal, 2y 2 inches smaller than the seat; And a 
single thigh 2 y 2 inches larger than one-half of the 
seat. As — 39 seat, 36% double thigh and 22 single 
thigh. I hold that single and double thigh are both 
more directly sectional to the seat measure than any 
of the "long" or "short" measures are sectional to the 
breast, with the exception of the blade; And that 
their use for the correct establishment of leg fitting 
points, are as vitally essential as the use of any meas- 
ures sectional to the breast. 



WHAT THEY INDICATE. 

In addition to determining actual size of single 
and double thigh, the measures serve the equally im- 
portant purpose of indicating type. . This principle 
holds good in the same ratio as with sectional meas- 
ures of the breast. Thus a large blade accompanied 
by a short strap would very clearly indicate the stoop- 
ing type. A long strap and a small blade, the erect 
type: And both strap and blade in harmony with 
breast size, would indicate the normal type. The same 
three general types are encountered in trousers cut- 
ting, and are detected as with coats, only by sectional 
measures. There being nothing about either seat or 
breast measures to denote type of form. That single 
and double thigh do, in conjunction with the seat 
measure indicate the type of form measured, is shown 
by the following table. The same seat size is used 
throughout, and only average variations from the 
normal, in both single and double thigh is given. 



Seat D-T S-T 

1 — Normal throughout 39 36% 22 

2— Normal D-T Small S-T... 39 3 6% 21 

3 — Normal D-T Large S-T.. 39 36% 23 

All indicate the normal seat type, with normal attitude. 

4 — Large D-T Normal S-T 39 37% 22 

5__ La rge D-T Small S-T 39 37% 21 

6— Large D-T Large S-T 39 37% 23 

The flat seat type, with increased width diameter. 

7— Small D-T Normal S-T 39 35% 22 

8 — Small D-T Small S-T 39 35% 21 

9— -Small D-T Large S-T 39 35% 23 

Thick through type, with increased depth diameter. 

Trousers cut by the seat measure only, would be 
correct for No. 1, but faulty in leg sizes for the other 
eight, which represent the eight possible variations 
from the normal, and occur most frequently in about 
the following order. No's. 8, 2, 7, 3, 4, 5, 1, 9, 6. 

By the use of the three oval figures, shown here- 
with, a better understanding of the three general 
types may be had. They show the cross section, just 
below the seat. All three have the same size seat and 
single thigh and are drawn to a correct scale: Each 
being reduced from a 39 seat and 2 2 single thigh 
drawing. No. 1 represents the normal, No. 2 the flat 
seat and open thigh and No. 3 the close set or compact 
type. The difference is determined solely by the 
double thigh measure, which is normal in No. 1, large 
in No. 2 and small in No. 3. Rule: Double thigh de- 
termines position of the legs, And position of the legs 
indicates type of form, just as position of the arm, 
determined by the blade measure, indicates type of 
form of the upper trunk. The different types are 
further illustrated by the three side view sketches. 
No. 1 the normal form, showing a normal amount of 
back waist suppression; No. 2 the wide flat seat type, 
requiring less back waist suppression and No. 3 the 
close set type, with prominent back seat, requiring 
more than a normal amount of back waist suppres- 
sion. The importance of knowing the type of form 
cannot be over estimated, as it forms the basis of 
correct waist suppression. This subject will be dealt 
with in fuller detail under the heading — Waist Sup- 
pression. 



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THEIR APPLICATION. 



Involves the fundamental principles, governing 
the correct placement of the fitting points on the 
crotch line of the drafted pattern. The method of 
using divisions of the seat measure, to establish leg 
fitting points: And the further practice of "sizing- 
up" the customer to detect abnormal conditions, sup- 
plemented by the use of "judgment" to determine 
changes to be made to the normal draft, is crude com- 
pared to the advanced methods used in coat cutting. 
The facts are: We are "progressive" coat cutters and 
"stand-pat" trousers cutters. Any reference I may 
make to systems in general use, is not intended as a 
criticism of any particular system, but applies equally 
to all seat measure systems, including one of mine 
contributed March 1899 to one of our leading tech- 
nical trade journals. 

The fact that the normal form constitutes less 
than 10%, with a possible addition of another 10%, 
"near-normal," is sufficient argument for a system 
of trousers cutting that recognizes the elements of 
disproportion as the vital issue. I have therefore con- 
structed a system on the principle that the seat meas- 
ure should be applied where taken, three to four 
inches above the crotch line; And that single and 
double thigh sizes should be used to establish all fit- 
ting points on the crotch line. The manner of their 
application is the most difficult problem with which 
I have had to contend. After trying for seven years 
to accomplish it with the common division square, I 
failed for the reason that there are no divisions on 
the square by which the seat, single and double thigh 
fitting points for all sizes, could be applied from a 
common center. This accounts for the use of the 
scale that accompanies this text book. ("Necessity is 
the Mother of invention" in this case.) The several 
sets on the scale, are graded from the smallest to the 
largest sizes as follows: Waist sets, beginning with 
28 size, are each 4/32 of an inch for each full inch 
increase: The seat sets are respectively 3 32 and 
5/32: The double and the single thigh are each 5/32 
of an inch. All such measurements are applied from 
the center line of the scale, which corresponds to the 
center construction line of the draft. Waist, seat 
and double thigh sizes are used full size, and not 
divided as when used with the square. It should be 
borne in mind that y 2 inch for single thigh, equals 
1 inch size of seat. 

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By reference to Dia-1, it will be seen that any 
increase, or decrease of either single or double thigh, 
will be applied to the section showing such increase 
or decrease, independently of, and without affecting 
construction line or fitting points elsewhere. After 
compiling a reference index to nearly 100 trousers 
systems, either in text book form, or contributed to 
English or American trade journals, I became con- 
vinced that the common practice of first establishing 
fitting points on the crotch line, and afterwards find- 
ing a center line from which to locate waist fitting 
points, to be wrong in principle and very confusing 
in practice. As an illustration of such principle and 
its confusing results, suppose single thigh is two sizes 
large, and an addition be made to the undress fork of 
the forepart, as at small figure 2 in Dia. 1, and after- 
wards center line be established one-half way between 
the double thigh and the changed single thigh fitting 
points, waist fitting points established from the 
changed center line would be advanced one-half the 
amount added at the fork. 

Many similarity confusing methods were found, 
after careful analysis of the systems examined, par- 
ticularly among the systems that used either single 
or double thigh alone, and serves to strengthen my 
belief that it is absolutely necessary to use both thigh 
measures, as either used alone would often be mis- 
leading. One more illustration: By using double 
thigh alone, a large double thigh measure might be 
taken to mean two large legs, while in reality they 
are usually two small legs, set far apart — Single thigh 
necessary to detect size of leg. 



TROUSERS BALANCE. 



RISE AM) SIDE LENGTH. 

The most important element involved in trousers 
cutting is balance. The general appearance of the 
garment when worn: The drapery of the legs and 
much of the ease and comfort to the wearer are the 
result of correct balance. The controlling factors of 
which are, relatively correct rise and side length and 
the proper distribution of waist suppression, I am 
thoroughly convinced, after nearly three years use, 
that rise and side length bear the same ratio of im- 
portance to trousers balance, as front and back lengths 
do to coat balance. 

As this chapter deals specifically with rise and 
side length, it may be well to define the measure- 
ments, the principle involved and the purpose they 
serve. (Such knowledge is, in my opinion, necessary 
for the intelligent use of any measurement.) The 
term height as used in cutting, implies a perpendic- 
ular quantity; And length, any upright measure taken 
over the surface of the body. Thus, a mans height 
from the collar button to the floor, may be 5 feet. 
While the length measured over the surface of the 
body, would be considerably more. This defines the 
principle and explains exactly the difference between 
the two measures, rise and side length. ( I predict 
that eventually, perpendicular or height measures, 
will be generally used as a more accurate quantity, 
by which to check all length measures.) 

By reference to the full sized drawing on page 7, 
it will be apparent that the distance from the floor 
to the chalk mark at point 3, is a perpendicular quan- 
tity; Determined by two measurements, inseam plus 
rise. The outseam measured from 1 to the floor, is 
a duplicate of the inseam below point 7. Thus the 
inseam subtracted from the outseam measure, gives 
side length, the distance from 1 to 7. I am well 
aware that most systems use this quantity, but they 
use it as rise instead of length. This practice is un- 
sound in principle, as we shall see by further analysis. 
A different principle is involved in the use of this 
measure, than with that of any other measure taken 
for the full suit; The one most nearly comparing to 
it, is the natural waist length, taken for a frock or 
any body fitting coat. For the very stooping form, 
this measure is also taken over a decidedly convex, 
or rounded surface, and afterwards applied to the 
drafted pattern as a perpendicular quantity, or nearly 

14 



so. The backpart of the coat however, is "bent" to 
conform to the surface of the body, and length has 
neither been gained nor lost. While the round on 
the outseam of the trousers forepart is cut to con- 
form to the round measured, and is not bent into the 
waist: Thus length has been gained. A demonstra- 
tion to prove this may be made as follows. A man of 
normal seat (39) and waist (34), will measure from 
a chalk mark, above the hip bone, as at 1 to the floor, 
say 42% inches. If instead of the tape measure, the 
1 Y^ yard stick be used, it will be found that the height 
to a point opposite figure 1, will be about 42, or V 2 
inch less than the length measure. If the length 
measure 42 y 2 , be applied as a perpendicular on the 
construction line, it is quite evident that the waist 
on the drafted pattern, will be % inch too high. If 
the 1}4 yard stick be placed in front of the form, it 
will be found that the height to point 3 will be 41%, 
or about % inch less on the normal form, than the 
side length. It is my fixed opinion that side length 
can only be used to determine the length of the form, 
from a point opposite the crotch level, to the waist- 
band seam; And that such length can in no way be 
practically or scientifically applied on the construction 
line as a height quantity. 



The inseam measure, as used on the construction 
line of the draft, is a perpendicular, and the rise 
should be used as a continuation of such perpendic- 
ular; The two constituting the total height quantity, 
upon which is established knee, crotch, seat and waist 
heights. By squaring each way from the waist point, 
we locate what has been supposed to be the hip point, 
from which to construct the side seam edge of the 
forepart. If all men had relatively equal side length 
and rise, it would be unnecessary to employ but the 
one measure, rise. But the facts show, that in only 
a few well proportioned, medium stout men, are the 
two measures equal. By equal is meant; That the 
side length, when applied on the round of the fore- 
part, will come neither above nor below the waist line. 
In the small waisted, wide hip forms, so common since 
belted trousers have become popular, side length is 
frequently as much as 1% inches more than rise, and 
in corpulent forms as much shorter. This alternating 
quantity of 2% inches is the vital factor affecting 
trousers balance, and of sufficient importance to jus- 
tify the use of both measures. Trousers systems in 
general use, treat side length and rise as equal, except 
for stout and corpulent forms, and then the amount 



15 



added to the front height of the forepart, is often an 
estimated quantity. By using the horizontal waist 
line (which implies equal side length and rise) either 
the forepart at the front center is too high: Or the 
side length is too short in all small waisted trousers; 
The result in either case, is defective balance. A 
still further objection to the equal side length and 
rise method, is found in the angle or "corner" pro- 
duced, where the forepart and backpart are joined 
together at the side seam; The corner being very 
pronounced with the very small waisted sizes. The 
waistband of the finished trousers, should assume a 
continuous line, (and will if forced with the belt) 
and a shortness at the top of the side seam, causing 
disaster to leg drapery, is the certain result. No such 
blunder in draftmanship, as this occurs with coats or 
vests. 

By way of emphasizing the necessity of using side 
length and rise measures, it may be well to mention 
some of the "effects" resulting from incorrect height 
and length quantities in the trunk section. Probably 
all of us have wrestled with the apparent long inseam; 
I say apparent, because there is in reality no such 
tiling as a long inseam, unless the trousers maker has 
actually stretched it in making. But it has all the 
earmarks of a long inseam, with "wavy" lines and 
"symptoms" of wrinkles extending from the inseam, 
at or below the knee, upwards to the hip section. This 
is one of the best examples of "Cause and Effect" 
found at the cutting board; And substantiates my 
theory, that we have no such clear understanding of 
the causes producing certain effects, in trousers, as 
we have in coat cutting. The proper diagnosis for 
this "distressing symptom" is short side length. If it 
were possible, with a pair of shears, to make a cut, 
beginning at the seat seam, about 8 inches below the 
waistband and continuing upwards to the side seam, 
about two inches below the waistband: And from 
there downwards across the forepart, to the lower 
fly button, the cut would open up X A to % of an inch 
at the side seam and the apparent long inseam would 
vanish. Unless, as is sometimes the case, the drag is 
caused by insufficient width at the double thigh sec- 
tion. 

The common practice, in recent years, of swing- 
ing in the bottom of the drafted pattern, one to two 
inches, is applying a poor remedy for short side length, 
at the wrong end. While such manipulation of the 
pattern partially remedies the trouble, it does not pro- 
duce length where length is most needed, at or just 

16 



below the waistband — the point of trousers "support." 
The swinging in is equivalent to inserting a wedge of 
% to % inch, from the side seam, along the crotch 
line to nothing at the fork. This operation produces 
extra length, entirely below the seat, instead of where 
it is needed, in the hip section. Another serious ob- 
jection to the swinging in process, is that it lacks 
method for determining just when, how much and 
what forms require it. The facts are: No change in 
the position of the legs occur, as the swinging in 
would indicate; But that a change does occur in the 
hip section, by increased side length, in all small 
waisted forms, can easily be verified by actual meas- 
ures. A principle very similar to the long inseam, 
exists in case of the long undersleeves; Where the 
customer would have to hold his arms about 9 inches 
out from the body, in order to have the sleeve drape 
correctly. What cutter would fuss around trying to 
"shrink in" or shorten the undersleeve length, when 
the easiest and most sensible thing to do, would be 
to add the necessary length to the top sleeve head. 
The consequences of the two defects, is however all 
in favor of the sleeve, as it can be quite successfully 
altered in the finished garment. While an alteration 
for short side length in trousers is next to impossible. 
The apparently long inseam is often accompained by 
actual inseam length: Caused by too high front rise, 
allowing the front to sag showing excess length at the 
fork of the forepart. 

Other defects, caused wholly, or in part by in- 
sufficient side length are; The uncomfortable cutting 
of the seat seam at the turn of the fork: The short 
cross wrinkles at the top of the inseam: And the 
tendency of belted trousers to sag below the hip bone. 
Changes in the drafted pattern, intended to correct 
"locally" the defects mentioned are: The swinging in 
of the bottom, as already considered. A hollowing of 
the seat seam and the addition of stride, to remedy 
the cutting of the seat seam. The dropping of both 
backpart and forepart below the crotch line, to elim- 
inate the short cross wrinkles. The straightening of 
the seat seam, producing more round to the side seam 
of the backpart: Thus gaining more side length nec- 
essary to prevent the belt sagging below the hip bone. 
The effect of all the manipulations mentioned, is to 
produce indirectly more side length. I do not mean 
to say that the troubles indicated, are caused altogther 
by defective balance, but in the majority of cases short 
side length is the contributing cause, to exactly the 
same extent that a short strap, or short back length 

17 



is often the cause of an ill fitting and uncomfortable 
coat, even though all width points may have been 
properly placed. I have devoted more space than may 
seem necessary, in order to emphasize the importance 
of balance measures in trousers cutting; And by 
pointing out some of the defects, resulting from faulty 
height or length quantities, impress on the reader the 
necessity of employing balance measures in daily prac- 
tice. 

WAIST SUPPRESSION. 

Waist suppression forms a very important part of 
trousers cutting, involving much the same principle 
as with coat cutting. That is to say: Suppression is 
made to the section where waist is smaller than the 
seat, and addition made where it is larger. While 
waist suppression is not, in my opinion, a controlling 
factor in either coat or trousers balance, yet it does 
serve the purpose of adding the "finish" to balance. 
And its improper distribution will, on the other hand, 
destroy an otherwise well balanced garment. If, in 
calculating the waist suppression of a frock coat, front 
and back waist centers can, by some sound method, 
be accurately established, the amounts to be taken 
out elsewhere will be a very simple problem. Ex- 
actly the same principle applies to the waist of 
trousers. 

The location of front waist center, as described on 
page 22, is practically the same method as used by 
trousers systems in general use, and need not there- 
fore be considered. Back waist center is, however of 
the greatest importance, as it forms the basis of com- 
plete waist suppression. Practically all waist suppres- 
sion is made at the back and side sections. Just what 
quantities are necessary for the various types, at the 
different sections, will be a very proper subject for 
careful analysis. As waist suppression is accomplished 
by a system of V's, it may be well first of all, to 
understand that the purpose of a V is two-fold: First, 
to suppress width at the opening: And secondly to 
create excess length at the point or apex of the V. 

Dia. 5 shows the complete draft of a pair of 
trousers, placed in a relative position to that in which 
coats and vests are drafted. Line A — B represents 
the seat construction line: Perpendicular lines E and 
D are respectively front and back seat centers. As 
the whole proposition of waist suppression hinges on 
the establishment of a correct angle for the run of 

18 




DIA — 2. 

the seat seam, it will be well worth our very careful 
consideration. I advocate the use of an angle of 
degrees for determining the run of the seat seam, 
on the principle that the angle establishes one-half of 
a V, and that such V constitutes suppression, the 
amount of which suppression, is determined by the 
angle of degree used. The three broken seat lines 
(in Dia. 2) are, 7 0, 7 5 and 80 degree angles respec- 
tively . And the solid lines 1, 2 and 3 are the oppo- 
site angles, formed when both backparts are placed 
in relative positions — -Thus completing the V. This 
method ignores the use of any division of either seat 
or waist size, by which to establish such angle, on 
the theory that they do not in any manner indicate 
type of form or attitude. It is necessary to determine 
by some method, (preferably by measurements) the 
type of form for which we are about to cut a pattern. 
The method, described under the heading "what 
they indicate," determines quite accurately, the type 
of form. That there are three general types, affect- 
ing waist suppression, as indicated by the three side 
view sketches, on page 11, will I think be admitted. 
(They are naked facts.) 



The attitude of the form, above the waist line, 
has no direct bearing on the subject of trousers cut- 
ting: Yet it has been the cause of a great deal of con- 
fusion. To illustrate: The stooping type, as under- 
stood in coat cutting, becomes the opposite type in 
trousers cutting. His coat would require longer back 
length, and more back waist suppression, than for the 
normal form; While for trousers he would require 
less back length and less back waist suppression, than 
for the normal form. For this type I use the straight- 



er seat seam, as established by the 80 degree angle; 
This is on the principle that such angle produces less 
back waist suppression and creates less length at 
point C. As this angle places back waist center near- 
er perpendicular line D, it will be necessary to make 
additional suppression (where this type requires it) 
as shown by dotted line 4. For the opposite type, the 
prominent back seat with hollow back waist, as out- 
lined by sketch 3 — page 11: I would use the 70 de- 
gree angle, on the principle, that such form having 
larger back seat and smaller back waist, than the 
normal form, will require more suppression at the 
back waist center, and more excess length at point 
C, on account of prominent seat. As the 70 degree 
places back waist center farther from perpendicular 
line D, it will be necessary to make less suppression 
at the side, as indicated by the dotted line 6. (This 
type usually has flat hips). For the normal, (or near 
normal) the 7 5 degree angle produces a normal 
amount of back-waist suppression: Creates normal seat 
length at point C: And leaves a normal amount of 
suppression at the side seam, as shown by the solid 
line 5. 



The use of any divisions of seat or waist size, to 
establish the seat angle, would produce the same 
angle for the thre types shown on page 11: Provided 
all three had the same rise. If sketch 1 had 9, sketch 
2 — 8 and sketch 3 — 10 inches rise respectively; Such 
method would actually produce a more crooked, in- 
stead of a straighter seat angle for No. 2: And a 
straighter instead of a more crooked angle for No. 3, 
This friendly criticism of trousers systems, that em- 
ploy the above method, is made because I know it 
to be faulty and the direct cause of a great deal of 
trousers trouble. I am well aware that my opinion of 
seat angle and its importance, will not dovetail with 
the ideas of a great many cutters. I beg to remind 
such, that I am merely advocating the same treatment 
for trousers, that they give coats. And that is, sup- 
pressing waist at the section where it is relatively 
smaller than the seat; More or less than a normal 
quantity, according to the type of form. Just get 
this fact in your system, (trousers system, I mean.) 
that a seat angle right for a normal form, cannot be 
right for either the flat seat or hollow back waist type. 
The single and double thigh measures will indicate in 
most cases the type of form: Yet this feature of 
trousers cutting is of sufficient importance to justify 
a careful notation on the measure book, as an ad- 
ditional precaution. 

20 



DESCRIPTION OF THE SCALE 

The scale is used, instead of the division square 
in applying sectional measures, for the following 
reasons: First — Absolute necessity in applying the 
thigh measures. Second — Greater accuracy in apply- 
ing all other width measures. Third — It avoids the 
necessity if dividing seat, waist and double thigh 
measures and lessens chance for errors. 

The scale is used, instead of the square, to gain 
right and left angles from construction line, by plac- 
ing center line of scale immediately above and parallel 
with construction line of the draft, and drawing cross 
lines. Width measures are found in sets. Thus W-W 
for waist: S-S for seat: D-T for double thigh: S-T for 
single thigh: B-B for bottom of forepart. (The two 
B sets farthest from center line are for bottom of 
backpart). For knee points the W-W sets are used, 
by doubling knee size. The "1/6-S" is 1/6 seat from 
center line and is used to gain seat rise above crotch 
line and rise of backpart, except for belted trousers, 
when rise is applied from point "H." The seat sizes 
set directly opposite the single and double thigh sets, 
are tables of proportion, used for quick reference in 
determining if either single or double thigh are dis- 
proportionate to the seat size, and how much. In ex- 
treme small single or double thighs, such table is 
very essential in calculating the mean or average size. 
(See Corpulent draft, points 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10.) 

The three diagonal lines are used to construct 
angles of 70, 7 5 and 80 degrees for the run of the 
seat seam. By placing any one of the three imme- 
diately above the seat construction line, with the 
point or apex of the lines at 3. (See draft of back- 
part.) Using the 75 degree angle for the normal 
type, indicated by normal S and D thigh. The 80 de- 
gree for the flat seat type requiring less suppression, 
indicated by either small single, or large double thigh. 
And the 70 degree angle for the thick thru type, hav- 
ing prominent back seat and hollow back waist, in- 
dicated by either small double or large single thigh. 
The only exceptions are when drafting the stout or 
corpulent types, the 70 degree angle should be used 
as it produces the excess seat length necessary for this 
type when stooping and sitting. 

Mar\ the fitting points in the different sets with a sharp 
pointed bodfyin. 

In applying all width measures \eep the little arrow pointed 
from you. 

21 



NORMAL TROUSERS 

41 Outseam I Id Bottom I 22 Single Thigh I 39 Seat 
3_[ Inseam | 19 Knee | 36% Dbl. Thigh | 34 Waist 
10 Side Length 
9U Rise 



TO DRAFT FOREPART. 

HEIGHTS — Draw construction line B-W. 

B — Bottom. 

K — Knee. One-half inseam, plus 2 inches from B. 

T — Thigh. The inseam measure from B. 

S — Seat. % Seat above T. Pound in set " V 6 -S." 

W — Waist. The rise above T. 

WIDTHS — Use the scale, with the small arrow 
pointing from you and establish widths in the follow- 
ing manner: Place center line B-W of the scale im- 
mediately above construction line at point W. Draw 
waist line and mark points 1 and 2 by the waist size, 
found in sets W-W. 

Except when waist is more than 5 inches smaller than seat: 
Point 1 is then found by squaring up from 3: And one-half waist 
applied, from 1 to 2. 

Turn scale over and place below point S. Draw 
seat line and mark points 3 and 4 by the seat size 
found in sets S-S. 

Move scale down without turning over, to point 
T: Draw crotch line and mark point 5 by the single 
thigh size found in set S-T: Also point 6 by the 
Double thigh size found in set D-T. 

Except for extreme small thigh sizes, (see corpulent draft, 
points 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10.) 

Turn scale over and place below point K. Draw 
cross line and mark points 7 and 8 by doubling the 
knee size, using sets W-W. (Knee 19x2 = 38, use 38 
in W-W sets.) 

Move scale down, without turning over to point 
B. Draw cross line and mark points 9 and 10 by the 
bottom size in the two B-B sets nearest center line. 

Add dress %-inch from 5 to 11. Add and deduct 
%-inch each way from 3. Add and deduct %-inch 
each way from 1. Draw lines from 5 through 7 to 
9 and from 6 through 8 to 10. 

LENGTH — Shape side seam from 2 through 4 to 
6 and apply side length on the round, from 6 through 
4 to establish point 12. 

Side length and front rise are alternating measures and the 
vilal factors governing trousers balance. 

Finish forepart as shown, being careful not to 
hollow fly edges too much between 3 and the fork. Drop 
below crotch line a trifle at point 11, so that inseam 
lengths from 7 to 5 and 7 to 11 will be equal. 

22 



NORMAL TROUSERS— Cont. 

THE BACKPART. 

Extend thigh, knee and bottom lines. 

13 From 5 is 2 1 /4-inch. 

14 From 6 is 1%-inch. 

15 From 7 is %-inch. 
Hi From 8 is *4 -inch. 

17 and 18 The bottom size of the backpart, are 
found in the two B sets farthest from the center 
line. (Seams have been added.) 

U) Is located by placing the scale with one of 
the three diagonal lines immediately above the seat 
line, with the apex of the lines touching at 3. In this 
case 75 the normal degree is used. Draw a line for 
the run of the seat seam. 

'•20 Is % seat above 19, found by the seat size 

in set % S, with the center line touching at point 19. 

Except if for hip trousers use point H instead of center line 

21 Is V2 seat size, plus 2 inches (more or less) 
applied with the tape, from 3 to 4 and from the seat 
seam along the dotted line to point 21. Draw a line 
from 14 through 21 upwards to the waist. Complete 
side seam of the backpart from 14 through 16 to 18, 
as shown. 

The notch at 14 is ^-inch less from 16, than 
from 8 to 6. 

22 Is located by applying side length from 14. 
Find total waist size from 1 to 12 and from 20 

along the dotted line to 22. For a normal waist, this 
should be 2 y 2 inches more than y 2 waist, 1 V 2 inch 
for seams and 1 inch for the V. If waist is smaller 
than normal, the V may be increased a trifle and the 
balance taken off the backpart, from 22 downwards 
to nothing at the seat line. 

Finish as shown: Adding length at the opening 
of the V: Springing seat seam slightly at 20, hollow- 
ing at 19 and dropping below crotch line at 13, so 
that length of inseam from 15 is about y± inch less 
than from 7 to 5. Complete inseam through 15 to 
17, making backpart at 17 and 18 about Vi inch 
longer than forepart. 

24 



20 




MEDIUM PEG-TOP TROUSERS 

41 Outseam I 16 Bottom 1 22 Single Thigh I 39 Seat 
31 Inseam | 20 Knee | 37y 2 Dbl. Thigh | 32 Waist 
10 Side Length 
9 Rise. 

TO DRAFT FOREPART. 

HEIGHTS. Draw construction line B-W. 

R — Bottom. 

K — Knee. One-halt' inseam, plus 2 inches from B. 

T — Thigh. The inseam measure from B. 

S — Seat. y 6 Seat above T. Pound in set "%-S." 

W — Waist. The rise above T. 

X — Represents the unknown quantity. The 
amount to be deducted from inseam measure for belt- 
ed and cuff bottom trousers varies from V 2 to 2 y 2 
inches, according to taste and style: In this case 1V 2 
inches for cuff bottoms. 

WIDTHS. Use the scale as with normal trousers, 
except to omit waist points 1 and 2 until after seat 
line and points 3 and 4 have been completed. Then 
And point 1 by squaring up from point 3 and add 
waist size from 1 to 2. Waist size in this case being 
2 inches smaller than normal would, if applied from 
the center line (as with normal trousers) produce 
total front waist suppression of y 2 inch at 1 to noth- 
ing at 3. (See chapter on waist suppression.) 

Points 5, 6, 9 and 10 are established as with the 
normal draft. Draw line from 5 to 9 to establish 
point 7: Also from 6 to 10 to establish point 8. 15 
is the knee size applied from point 7 instead of the 
construction line, as a result point 15 is V 2 inch from 
8. Make the same addition from 6 to 14, and V 2 the 
amount, % inch from 4 to 13. This distributes, for 
a medium peg effect, added quantities in about the 
proper proportion. 

Side length in the normal trousers is % inch 
more than front rise: In this case on account of 
smaller waist, the difference 1 inch, on account of the 
more rounded surface from 2 to 6. Apply side length 
from 6 through 4 to 12. In all other respects com- 
plete the forepart as for normal trousers. 

It is advisable to choU? marl? the normal side seam from 2 
through 4, 6 and 8 to 10, in order to mafye additions for the peg 
effect more intelligently. 

The absolute necessity of accurate rise and side length quan- 
tities, when cutting belted trousers, whether the peg top effect, or 
normal leg widths, should be evident to any cutter of experience. 

26 



MEDIUM PEG-TOP TROUSERS 

(CONTINUED) 

THE BACK PART. 

Extend thigh, knee and bottom lines. 

16 From 5 is 2 *4 -inch. 

17 From 14 is l^-inch. 

18 From 7 is %-inch. 

19 From 15 is ^-ineh. 

20 and 21 are found by the bottom size in the 
two B sets farthest from the center line. 

22 Is located by placing the scale with the 
diagonal line 80 immediately above the seat line, with 
the apex of the three lines touching at 3. Draw line 
for the run of the seat seam. 

Double thigh measure indicates the flat seat type. 

23 Is the rise of the backpart, found by the 
seat size in set Ve-S, by applying point H of the scale 
to 22. 

24 Is V 2 seat size, plus 2 % inches, ( 2 inches as 
for the normal trousers and twice 1 / 4, the amount 
added from 4 to 13 of the forepart) applied with the 
tape, from 3 to 13 and from the seat seam along the 
dotted line to 24. 2 inches added to seat size, is 
sufficient for the semi-fitting trousers: But in this 
case where extra size for the peg effect is desired, the 
same additions should be made to the backpart as the 
forepart, this has been done at the knee and thigh 
points, and is accomplished at the seat point 24, by 
adding to the customary 2 inches, twice the amount 
added from 4 to 13 of the forepart. This in fact adds 
extra size of y 2 inch at the seat point: 1 inch at the 
thigh point and 1 inch at the knee point, and the 
amount in each case has been added equally to the 
forepart and backpart. 

In all other respects the draft is completed as 
for the normal form. As the side seam of the back- 
part, drawn through 17 and 24 to 25 reduces the 
width of the top of backpart, on account of being 
straighter, it will be unnecessary to increase the size 
of the V, or to take anything off from 25 to 24: This 
will only be necessary in very small waist sizes. 

28 



23( 




CORPULENT AND STOUT 
TROUSERS 

42 Outseam I 17 Bottom I 24 S-Thigh I 47 Seat 
31 Inseam | 21^ Knee | 40M D-Thigh | 48 Waist 

11 Side length. 

12 Rise. 

TO DRAFT FOREPART. 

Draw construction line B-W and establish Height 
quantities at K, T, S and W, and Widths at 1, 2, 3 
and 4 as for normal trousers. 

Place scale immediately above point T, draw 
crotch line and mark single thigh at point 5 and 
double thigh at point 8. As both thigh measures are 
4 sizes small, that is proportionate for a 43 instead of 
47 seat, apply rule of averages by dividing the differ- 
ence between what customer actually measures and 
what he should measure. This can be determined 
very readily by refering to the scale of seat sizes set 
opposite the single thigh set. Thus point 5 is the 
actual size and point 6 is what customer should meas- 
ure if proportion, the divided difference gives 25 as 
the revised thigh size, with which to establish point 7. 

Point 10 in the Double thigh section is the re- 
vised double thigh measure, and is determined in 
exactly the same manner. 

While these revised measures do not produce as technically 
correct fitting garment, as the actual measures tal(en: The}) do 
supply additional ease where ease is needed most in elderly and 
stout men, and improve the proportions in the finished garment. 

Knee points 11 and 12 and bottom points 13 and 
14 are established in the usual manner. 

Add %-inch dress from 7 to 15: Add and de- 
duct % at point 3 and X A at point 1. Draw lines from 
i/i-inch inside of point 7 through 11 to 13, also from 
% inside of 10 through 12 to 14. 

Square down from point 2 and apply side length 
from 10 through 4 to establish point 16. 

In this case as ivith all very stout and corpulent forms, side 
length is shorter than rise. Point 16 as a result is a full inch 
below point 2. 

Complete top of forepart from 16 to just below 
W to 1. The dress and undress fly lines as shown, 
keeping both as near the same shape as possible. Drop 
below the crotch line at point 15 so that inseam 
lengthens from 11 to 7 and 11 to 15 are the same. 




g— -r—'j 



31 



CORPULENT AND STOUT 
TROUSERS— Cont. 

THE BACKPART. 

Extend crotch, knee and bottom lines. 

17 From 7 is 2'/ 2 inches for all sizes above 4: 



18 From 10 is 1 inch for corpulent and stout 
forms. 

19 From inseam of forepart if % inch. 

20 From outseam of forepart is *4 inch. 

21 and 22 the bottom sizes of the backpart, are 
found in the two B-B sets farthest from the center 

line. 

23 Is located by placing the scale with one of 
the three diagonal lines immediately above the seat 
line, with the apex of the lines touching at point 3. 
In this case the 70 degree angle is used. Draw a line 
for the run of the seat seam. 

The 70 degree angle is used, not because of prominent bacfy 
seat, or holloiv bacfy waist, but because the stout and corpulent type 
require excess length in the seat seam. 

24 Is y 6 seat above 23, found by the seat size 
in set y 6 -S, with the center line touching at point 23. 

25 Is y 2 seat size, plus 2 inches for ease and 
making, applied with the tape from 3 to 4 and from 
the seat seam along the dotted line to point 25. Draw 
a line from 18 through 25 upwards to the waist. Com- 
plete side seam of the backpart from 18 through 2 to 
2 2 as shown. 

Make the notch of backpart, at 18, ^-inch less 
from 20 than from the knee notch of the forepart 
to 10. 

26 Is located by applying side length from the 
notch at 18. 

Take x /z waist size, in this case 24 and add 1 y 2 
inches for seams and apply from 1 to 16, and from 
the seat seam along the dotted line to where it fills 
at or near point 26; The amount short of 2 6 is to be 
taken out with a V. It is preferable to use a fish 
shaped V, for corpulent sizes, unless the waist is con- 
siderably larger than the seat: In which case omit the 
V and add 1-inch only to the % waist size for seams. 

Finish as shown: Springing seat seam slightly 
at 24, hollowing a trifle at 23 and dropping below the 
crotch line at 17, so that length of inseam from 19 
is about ^-inch shorter than from the knee notch of 
the forepart to 7. Complete inseam through 19 to 21, 
making backpart at 21 and 22 about V 4 - inch longer 
than forepart. 

32 




THERE ARE JUST AS MANY HIGH HIPS, AS 
LOW SHOULDERS. 

There are two pronounced "effects" of the high 
hip; One is the draw or drag from the hip region to- 
wards the inseam at or below the knee, on the one 
leg only: The other is the (apparently) shorter trous- 
ers leg. Both are in reality caused by insufficient 
side length on the high hip side. The effect is still 
more pronounced with snug waist fitting and belted 
trousers, as the waist-band is forced above both hips 
alike and the high hip causes disaster to the drapery 
of the leg on that side. 

When the sliding arm square is placed above both 
hips, the difference in height in extreme cases is quite 
apparent and must be detected by actual measure- 
ments as explained in "Directions for measuring." 

TREATMENT FOR HIGH HIP. 

Enter both outseam measurements in the order 
book, for instance as R-42%, L-42 and draft the pat- 
tern by the 42%. The difference in this case is % 
inch and should be noted on the pattern as, R-H-%-in. 
When the layout is made on the cloth. Chalk around 
the backpart, except between points 1 and 2. (1 is 
about 5-inch below hip notch.) Pivot at A and lower 
pattern at B %-inch and rechalk across top of back- 
part. Place the pattern in its original position at 1 
and 2, and add and deduct %-inch (or a little less) 
each way from 2. Pivot at 1 and chalk the two out- 
let marks as shown — chalk around the forepart as 
usual. Then pivot at C, as in Pig. 2, and lower pat- 
tern at D the %-inch and chalk mark across top of 
forepart. Instruct trousers maker to make right hip 
high and large, using both outlet marks, etc. 

High hip 16 always accompanied by prominent hip, to the same 
degree as large blade accompanies high shoulder, and the addi- 
tion of length, only partially remedies the matter. If addition for 
the prominent hip is made and an equal amount is deducted from 
the opposite hip, as shown in Fig. I, the desired result will be 
accomplished without affecting total hip and waist sizes. 



34 



THEORY AND PRACTICE 



There exists among cutters a mild form of preju- 
dice against the "theoretical cutter." This is rather 
difficult to understand, when we realize, that every 
achievement of man, has been developed from a 
theory. 



Webster defines theory as — "An idea existing 
only in the mind." Practice is putting into effect, 
such theory. But how shall we define practice, that 
proceeds to do a certain thing, without a theory hav- 
ing previously existed in the mind. Our theory of coat 
cutting is well grounded, and we proceed to take cer- 
tain measurements, and to apply them intelligently; 
Thus producing certain effects, from well understood 
causes. In trousers cutting, we have been practicing 
without theory: Gaining certain effects, without 
knowing how or why. 

There are two ways of gaining a knowledge of 
cutting: One is by the study of the subject, And the 
other is by the hard school of experience, with the 
bushelman as the schoolmaster. 



We have experimented and used every expediency 
imaginable to remedy the effect, without fully under- 
standing the cause producing the effect. Cutting is 
really a series of "causes and effects:" We see the 
effect, the cause is nearly always hidden. When we 
gain a clearer understanding of the cause producing 
the effect, cutting will be much easier. 



I have advocated the use of certain measure- 
ments, to detect abnormal conditions, on the ground 
that disproportion is a — "Condition and not a theory. 



Seat measure trousers systems, leaves a great 
deal to the imagination of the cutter. 



The American cutter is long on practice: And 
short on theory. 



The location of all fitting points, is mechanical. 

35 



CUTTING REMARKS 



So much confusion exists, in regard to the treat- 
ment of "dress," that it may be well to define just 
what dress is. It is without doubt an added quantity 
at the fork of the forepart: And any system of cut- 
ting that substracts, or divides the dress quantity at 
this point, is not only unsound in principle, but con- 
fusing in practice. Dress at the seat construction line 
is, however a divided quantity: For the reason, that 
a change in the location of the fly edges is made to 
accomodate the added quantity at the fork. And such 
change can only be effected by adding to the left fly 
edge, the amount deducted from the right. I believe 
that the changed location of the fly edge, will better 
conform to the added quantity at the fork, if it is ex- 
tended to the waist, and a lesser amount added and 
deducted at that point. 



In making up the fly of the foreparts, it will be 
found that the left fly edge is often shorter than the 
right. In which case it should be stretched to con- 
form to the length of the right, instead of using a stay 
on the right. A cleaner fork of the foreparts will be 
obtained, if the fly edges are given a little pull from 
the second button to the end of the fork. 



The best test for a properly cut and made fork of 
the forepart, may be made by unbuttoning the two low- 
er buttons (when the owner is in them). If the left 
fly draws away and shows part of the fly buttons, it 
is proof that the proper quantities have not been 
added and subtracted at the front seat center of the 
forepart. This divided quantity should never be less 
than % of an inch, % added to the dress side and % 
deducted from the undress side: And an inch is safe. 



The rounded fly edge of the forepart of corpulent 
trousers should be pressed back. In fact this rule 
holds good, wherever excessive round is added, it 
should be pressed back towards the center of the gar- 
ment. 



The inseam of the backpart, should be stretched 
upwards at the crotch: Also the seat seam of the 
backpart, from the fork, to a point opposite the prom- 
inent part of the seat. (The customer will have to do 
this, unless the trousers maker does.) "Length" gain- 
ed by the V, at the top of the backpart should be 
pressed downwards to the prominent part of the seat. 

36 



I have carefully avoided, thus far, the advocacy 
of any out and out theory. But I may be permitted 
to launch one, provided I label it as such. 



Much speculation has been indulged in as to the 
cause of the low shoulder, without any of the reasons 
thus far advanced, being accepted. Mine will doubt- 
less share the same fate, but it will do no harm to 
spring it. I have proven to my entire satisfaction, 
that there are as many high hips as low shoulders: 
And that they usually occur simultaneously. While 
it is impossible to detect any difference in leg length, 
by the inseam measure: It is possible by the outseam 
measure. That the long leg causes the high hip, may 
be demonstrated by a very simple test; Place a thin 
board *4 to % inch thick, under the foot of the short 
leg, and both hips will assume equal height. Two of 
the leading Orthopedic Specialists in the United States, 
corroborated my theory of the long leg, and its effect 
in causing the high hip. It is only necessary to apply 
the board test a little farther, and observe that the 
shoulder on the same side, is lowered, in order for the 
body to maintain an upright posture. If the long leg, 
caused by placing a board under one foot, will produce 
a high hip and a correspondingly low shoulder on the 
same side: Why will not a long leg, the result of 
unequal growth, do the same thing? 



I believe trousers to be of sufficient importance 
to warrant the same attention that is given coats. 
For the reason: That the average customer counts 
trousers one-half of suit comfort and satisfaction. 
They put them on in the morning and are compelled 
to wear them until they go to bed at night, on an 
average of 16 hours a day. The office man, may put 
of an office coat, or go without his coat, if it is un- 
comfortable, and many of them leave the vests off 
altogether, during the summer. But the law compels 
him to wear the trousers we make, whether they are 
comfortable or not. 



I cannot emphasize to strongly, the importance 
of taking very careful and accurate measurements. 
The measurements, as explained in directions for 
measuring, are all vitally necessary and nothing less 
will accomplish the purpose for which measurements 
are taken: But if I were to single out two, as being 
more important than the others, I would select out- 
seam and inseam. As the whole scheme of trousers 
balance, depends on accurate side length, and this can 
only be obtained by subtracting a correct inseam from 
a correct outseam measure. 



I have not robbed trousers cutting of any of its 
individuality or artistic possibilities: The same op- 
portunity exists for the exercise of lines and effects, 
and I claim a better opportunity, on account of a 
surer foundation upon which to build. 

37 






Iii the chapter dealing with single and double 
thigh, it may seem to some that I place too much im- 
portance on those measures. I only tried to point 
out the necessity of determining leg size and position, 
because I know from 10 years use of the measures, 
that the seat size has no more to do with the leg size 
and position, than the breast size has to do with arm 
and shoulder size and position. In other words: 
Legs are legs and not seat. 



Mr. Reader, you may have to make a little more 
or less additions to the fork of the backpart, for 
ease and making: Also to the one-half of seat size. 
There can be no set rule for such additions: The 
manner of taking the measures and the making will 
influence such quantities. 



I am in favor of a V in the backpart for all sizes, 
fish shaped for corpulent and stout forms, even 
though addition has to be made at the top of the seat 
and side seams, for the very large waist sizes: A 
cleaner waist is produced and more room provided for 
whatever may be carried in the hip pockets. 



For the very corpulent type, who like their trous- 
ers well up in front: A small V may be used to good 
advantage, if placed about in the center of the fore- 
part, not over two inches long and ^-inch wide at the 
opening. 



The abdomen measure may be taken and applied, 
one sixth below the waist line: Using the waist set, 
with the scale in the same position, as when applying 
waist sizes, only moved down to the abdomen point. 



The proportionate form causes us no trouble for 
two reasons: First — any system will cut a good gar- 
ment for him: And secondly, there are so few of 
them. 



It would be "shear" folly — to undertake to cut 
coats without a try on: Using no measures, except 
breast, waist, seat, sleeve and coat lengths: Yet that 
is exactly what we have been trying to do with trous- 



Inseam measure, is an uncertain quantity, with 
the young chap who wears his trousers at "half-mast." 



The semi-fitting trousers now in vogue, will nec- 
essitate the use of all the measures I have advocated. 



Better fitting trousers, will be the Merchant 
Tailors strongest weapon, for capturing his share of 
the young man's business. 



OCT 7 W* 



